first things first, get some basic models to practice on, there's a lot of things you can do with nothing more than a simple (appropriate color) primer, some ink (the paint kind, not the kind from a pen) and some drybrushing (it's a simple technique with some very very awesome potential when used correctly, basically you just get a very small amount of paint on the brush and you 'dab' the ideally you'll only end up painting the raised surfaces, which is often the easiest way to get the details on a model to stand out) You'll prime the model with a color appropriate to what you want them to look like when you're done, they make primers in just about any color, but white is usually a good thing to start with, black is usually a -bad- color to start with unless you want everything to be excessively dark. When you're painting skin tones and stuff, don't worry about giving definition and such, just paint the base colors, same thing with everything else. After you've got the basic colors down, you're going to want to use a wash (ink) to fill in the crevasses, you can use a darker wash to give more depth or a lighter wash to keep the colors close while adding character, but in general you want to use an ink that's close to the color you painted (a brown ink for flesh tones, blue on blue etc...) After inking you're going to work the drybrush, mostly you're looking for raised surfaces here, shield embossments, brass knuckles, the little things that are easy to reach, because you're drybrushing the paint is only really going to collect on the raised surfaces, and it makes things look awesome. The final step is the touchwork, and you'll want to get the finest, tiniest paintbrush you can get for this, this is for the little things you can't easily drybrush, like eyes and teeth and such, it's the hardest step in the process and usually takes the most time, but do it right and everything looks amazing!
mantic models are really cheap if you dont want to waste more expensive ones also, dot-4 brake fluid is fantastic if you want to remove paint from the model, just dont keep plastic submerged too long
I guess it depends on the type of paint, but I've always just used paint thinner to remove my enamel paint.
That is endlessly debatable. Many (most?) miniature painters prime black, since recessed areas are usually darker, and highlighting up is easier than shading down. And metallics basically require a black undercoat anyway, so if the miniature calls for them it will mean an extra step of doing a black undercoat on metallic parts if one primes white. As for me, I prime grey. Also, Simple Green is a good acrylic paint remover, and won't dissolve plastic minis (unlike some paint removers).
I prime black. The only times I've ever primed a different color were if I was planning on painting something white or yellow, and now with the newer basecoat paints GW sells I'd probably prime black to paint yellow anyway.
I would use Isopropyl alcohol for acrylics, but be carefull if Ur cleaning plastic or resin miniatures, as they might be dissolved as well.
once you've got a handle on the detail work yes, but for beginning it becomes far to easy to miss spots you didn't want to miss because the primer was black. Though I agree overall, gray is the most reasonable compromise... I've never had to use a black undercoat for metallics? I mean, I -have- but it's never been mandatory, I've typically used either a white primer (simply because I started with a big ass can of white) or a specific color where appropriate and, with the exception of certain intentional tinting, I've never really had a problem using metallics with any base coat, so I'm not sure if maybe it's just different paint stock? As for shading I tend to use ink washes for that purpose, it gives me more control over where I want the shading and darker highlights.
Debatable indeed, and in my opinion personal preference. I usually use a black primer, but that's mostly because it suits my paintstyle. I'd recommend the white primer for lighter colours and black if Ur painting a darker colourscheme. For metallics I usually paint a red (bronze, copper or gold) or blue (steel) basecoat, gives a nice colourboost to the metallics. Alternate basecolours can be used for different effects ofc.
that's pretty much the gist of it, if you want your model to be darker, use a darker basecoat, myself I tend to find unless -black- is going to be a primary color in the pattern using a black primer just makes everything -too- dark. and white for silver, also, if you want to give a metal a 'glow' give it a light paint over with an ink and it'll keep the metal feel. Also works if you want to create a 'blued' or 'weaponblacked' look without just painting it black or blue. (just use a heavier wash)
Iv tried my hand at painting again! Two of my new tanks! In the same motif as my agis line but I couldn't be bothered to unpack it Still a work in progress ran out of my black base spray before I could finish the sponson and hull weapons.
